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Las Vegas News of the Week

 
March 17, 2008
Vegas4Visitors Weekly

by Rick Garman


Moon Handbooks Exclusive Excerpt
My new guidebook is in stores now!

The second edition of the Moon Handbooks Las Vegas is packed with all reviews, history, hints, travel tips, and more - much more than you'll be able to find on this website and it's handier than trying to find a wireless connection for your laptop while walking on The Strip.

To celebrate the publication, I'm going to periodically share some exclusive excerpts from the book with you.

In the first chapter you'll find all sorts of cool "Travel Strategies" - itineraries and suggestions for creating customized vacations depending on your taste, mood, and budget. The one below is called "Beyond the Glitz" and it focuses on the non-gaming, alternative Vegas vacation.

And by the way, the version below is my original before my editor got ahold of the thing and took out some of the jokes she didn't get.

The Moon Handbooks Las Vegas is available in most bookstores or online at places like Amazon.com. return to the top


 

Beyond the Glitz
Most people come to Vegas and do the same things as everyone else. They gamble, they eat at a buffet or a celebrity chef restaurant, they see the big-name shows, they go to the trendy nightclubs, and they never, ever venture more than a block or two off The Strip. For them, Vegas has become a cookie-cutter destination, where the rules of engagement may be extravagant but they rarely stray from the expected.

But you're not like that. You're an individual and proud of it; the type that eschews convention and enjoys blazing new trails, or at least trails less trodden. You like to gamble but necessarily in a casino, you don't like eating in chain restaurants, you prefer alternative music, and the thought of spending $8 for a bottle of beer, after paying $20 to get into the bar in the first place, makes your head hurt.

Whether you describe yourself as alternative, non-traditional, an adventurer, or just your own person who wants unique experiences this is your travel strategy.

Non-Gaming Hotels
I've hear there are people that want to come to Vegas but don't want to gamble. I've never actually met a person like this and, quite frankly, put them in the same classification as a Yeti, but just in case you fall into this category you can do this town without ever going near a slot machine. Well, once you leave the airport that is.

There are literally hundreds of non-gaming hotels in this city, some just as nice if not nicer than the casino-hotels. And you can even find a few of them on The Strip! THEhotel, despite its silly name, is attached to Mandalay Bay but is worlds apart in many ways. You can enter and leave without ever seeing the casino and the all-suite accommodations are among the best on The Strip. Likewise The Four Seasons, a luxurious destination of its own also at Mandalay Bay and The Signature, high-end hotel-condominium units at MGM Grand.

Get off The Strip and you have a whole host of options from affordable hotels from virtually every name-brand from Marriott to Motel 6.

But the best non-gaming hotels are located at Lake Las Vegas where you'll find unparalleled rooms, service, and amenities at The Ritz-Carlton and Loews. Both are world-class resorts that could compete with high-end hotels in any city in the world.

Dining Diversions
If you eat at a restaurant or buffet on The Strip you'll probably have to pass through a casino to get there and will usually pay more to do so. While it is true that the places that have turned this city into a dining Mecca are mostly found at a major Strip hotel, there are places worthy of your attention elsewhere, ranging from cheap and affordable eats to gastronomic delights.

Scattered around the Downtown Las Vegas area are a number of fun, fine, and/or funky eateries including the terrific Andre's, a classic French restaurant that delivers everything you'd want from one and more and El Sombrero Café, a decidedly downscale Mexican joint in business since 1950!

Elsewhere in the Vegas metropolitan area you can find some fantastic food of all calibers if you're willing to drive to find it. My personal favorites include the farm-food gone mad at Hash House-a-Go-Go; Lotus of Siam which was called the best Thai restaurant on the continent by Gourmet magazine; the simply amazing Italian subs at Capriotti's; the deep South influences on the nouvelle cuisine at Rosemary's; and The Cupcakery, which should need very little explanation.

Shopping Options
Some of the biggest and most successful malls in America are located here in Vegas but generally speaking what you'll find there is what you'll find at the mall in your town only more expensive. Sure there are upscale retailers that are not as commonplace but this is not the travel strategy for folks looking for Dolce and Gabbana.

Instead the area of town you'll most want to focus your attention on is known as the Las Vegas Arts District. Located between the North Strip casinos like The Stratosphere and Downtown Las Vegas, this area is home to a variety of art galleries, independent furniture and accessories boutiques, and some especially noteworthy vintage clothing stores. The Attic is famous nationally from an American Express commercial but it is more famous locally as the place for fun and affordable fashions. Similar in tone but more exclusive in execution is D'Loe House of Style, which focuses on fabulous get-ups from the 1930s through the 1970s and has gained the attention of both Italian Vogue and Elle magazines.

For the musically inclined head directly to Zia Records. Yes, it is technically a chain but it's a small chain located mainly in the southwest and nobody does alternative music better.

Alternative Entertainment
Zia Records mentioned above has weekly in-store concerts from local rock and indie bands and you can find touring acts of this stripe at clubs and venues scattered all over town. Your best bet is to pick up a copy of Las Vegas Weekly, the local alternative newspaper that does a good job of keeping up on whatever you call the opposite of trendy.

If what you're more interested in is the non-traditional bar and club scene, I'll be honest: it's not easy to find in this town without venturing into neighborhoods that are best left unexplored. Bridging the gap between places Paris Hilton would enjoy and places your average serial killer would enjoy are a host of bars that some alternative types might sneer at but are good enough for most of the rest of us. I'd start at Beauty Bar in Downtown Las Vegas for its fun, non-threateningly intelligent vibe then venture over to The Sand Dollar Blues Lounge for some authentic live blues music and cheap drinks. As the night wore on I'd move a little more hardcore at a place like The Double Down Saloon, where the motto is "You Puke, You Clean" and then finish up the night dancing until dawn at Krave, the "alternative lifestyle" club that mainly draws a gay and lesbian crowd but is inclusive to everyone with an open mind who just wants to have fun.

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Feature of the Week

 
Hotel Review: The Four Queens
 

The venerable Four Queens along Fremont Street has undergone a serious overhaul that has turned a unremarkable hotel into one of the top properties in Downtown Las Vegas. It's amazing what new owners, a fresh attitude, and several million dollars can accomplish.

The Four Queens was named for the original owners four daughters - yeah, I was disappointed, too - and its location in the heart of Glitter Gulch has kept the foot traffic going. It's mainly a haven for an older crowd and value-conscious travelers - as is most of Downtown - so if you're looking for a hip, trendy party spot for the young and beautiful you'll have to look elsewhere.

Having said that, there's nothing wrong with being a value-conscious traveler and if you are one, the Four Queens should be very high on your list of places to consider staying.

The casino area is a nice mix of old and new Vegas. The machines have all been upgraded to modern standards - in addition to the traditional reel types there are multi-line video style machines and they all have ticket-in, ticket-out technology. They come in a variety of denominations but the focus here is on the low end with dollars and above being vastly outnumbered by the pennies, nickels, and quarters.

Table games are arranged under a high-ceiling of iron trellises and brass chandeliers and offer up the standards like blackjack, craps, and roulette plus newer games like Three Card Poker, Let It Ride, and Texas Hold'em Bonus. The limits are lower than you'll find on The Strip and payouts can be higher - this is one of the few places in town that still offer 3-2 odds on single deck blackjack.

They also have a small sports book and a keno lounge if you are so inclined.

But even with the upgrades, the casino still feels very "old" Vegas - a bit cramped, kind of smoky… Vegas, baby! Yes, if you're looking for the true place to pretend you're a Vegas hipster, forget the sleek lounges on The Strip and head for a craps table at The Four Queens.

The 690 rooms are located in two towers with those in the south tower being just a fraction bigger for future reference but all of them are on the smallish side. Anything more than two people in the room and there will be some nerves stepped upon.

They have all received a significant décor upgrade with new furnishings, flat panel televisions, carpets, drapes, and more. Each comes with irons and boards, coffeemaker, high-speed Internet access, and a host of other amenities. While they don't compare to the palatial surrounding you'll find at most Strip hotels, they are better than most Downtown hotels and at the kind of prices they charge you have absolutely nothing to complain about.

There are a few restaurants including the terrific Hugo's Cellar, a 24-hour café (where you can find things like $8.95 prime rib), a small brew-pub, and a miniature food court with a Subway and a Dryers.

There's a small casino bar but the main entertainment facility is called The Canyon Club, a fantastic space with a dance floor, an ornately carved bar, big plushy sofas and other seating, and a huge stage. It all has a Hindu-meets-Hollywood aesthetic and feels like a great place to see one of the live bands or shows they book in here.

If all that isn't enough for you, the entertainment, casinos, bars, shopping, and restaurants that line the Fremont Street Experience are just steps away.

On top of all that, there's also the service. I've always felt that The Four Queens has one of the friendliest staffs in town and my last visit reinforced that impression. It's something they take a great deal of pride in and while I'm sure that even some of their employees have bad days, you can usually expect a hearty smile and "howdy-doo" from the folks here.

And here's the real kicker - you can get rooms here for as low as $50 a night. Weekends start at $79 and you almost never pay more than $100 a night. I officially do not want to hear anyone whine about how expensive Las Vegas is anymore. Yes, it's not on The Strip, yes you don't get a bathroom big enough to park a Lear jet in, and yes you don't get a room with electronic drapes and butler service, but the room will be clean, comfortable, modern, and (did I mention?) cheap.

The Four Queens offers a terrific mix of value, service, and traditional Vegas fun. I highly recommend it.

Highs: Low Cost, friendly staff
Lows: Missing some of the niceties people have come to expect
Location: 7 - The heart of Fremont Street
Price: 9 - Very inexpensive.
Value: 8 - You get more than what you pay for.
Rooms: 8 - Comfortable and modern.
Casino: 7 - Feels like "Old" Vegas in a good way
Amenities: 6 - Rooms have most of what you need.
Facilities: 5 - Missing things like a pool and spa.v Service: 9 - Very friendly.
Fun: 7 - Big savings and great gambling action.
Bonus: 9 - Extra points for the friendly smiles and low rates
Vegas4Visitors Rating: 75

The Four Queens
202 Fremont Street
Las Vegas, NV 89101
800-634-6045
website
690 Rooms
$50 and up
avg. $50-$100 per night

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Feature of the Week

 
Restaurant Review: Fish Camp
 

Same. Same. Same.

That's my biggest problem with Las Vegas restaurants these days; everything is the same. Sure, everything has its own bit of uniqueness. At one buffet you might find prime rib while another will have duck. At the steakhouses one might serve their meat with sauces, the other dry.

And true if you're willing to spend outrageous sums of money you can find some originality, but at the core of it, whatever restaurant you are at, you'll probably be able to find 10 others that do pretty much the exact same thing.

That's why restaurants like Fish Camp at the Town Square shopping center are such a delight. It's not the "same."

The brainchild of low-country cuisine specialist Louis Osteen, Fish Camp is the more casual, less pricey cousin to the equally delightful Louis' Las Vegas located right next door. It raison d'être is a mixture of deep south staples, southeast Atlantic seafood, and all of the mouth-watering flavors that come from the region. And don't worry, fish fearers. Despite the name of the restaurant, there are plenty of things to eat that weren't swimming in their previous incarnation.

As mentioned, the place is casual - a whimsical sea shanty with fish nets hovering above the comfortable booths and tables, plus a lot of very interesting artwork. Take some time to study the giant mural near the main bar that looks like a 3-D version of a dream Salvador Dali had.

The menu covers all of the territory that you'd want it to starting with a series of Bar Snacks like Caroline Pulled Pork Empanadas, New Orleans BBQ Shrimp, and a concoction called Low Country Nachos - potato crisps with pimento cheese, BBQ pulled pork, jalapenos, and ranch dressing.

After that you move into the appetizer section, which is like the bar snacks only more. They serve up regional specialties like fried alligator, oyster shooters (spiked with a Vodka Bloody Mary sauce), crab and lobster cakes, and more.

Soups and salads run the gamut, from simple to extravagant. There's she Crab soup and gumbo plus inexpensive greens all the way up to a Carolina Crab Cobb that is so big and so packed with stuff that it's going to run you more than most of the entrees. Sharing is the key here.

Sandwiches include shrimp or oyster Po-Boys, burgers, pulled pork, and deviled crab cake among others but take a look at the House Favorites section of the menu for the really interesting low country flavors show up.

You could try the shrimp and grits or the flash-fried Carolina fish of the day, but why not go whole hog (so to speak) with a pork porterhouse served alongside cracklings and Jack Daniels whipped potatoes.

We visited at lunch so those entrees were a bit too much for our agenda, although by the time we were done we had stuffed ourselves with so much food that we should've just gone for it.

The chef sent us out a sampling of the appetizers including the alligator, which if you can get past the concept of eating alligator, was delicious, lightly breaded and fried then served with both blue cheese and hot sauce. It's spicier and a bit tougher but otherwise you'd never know you weren't eating chicken unless someone told you. We also ordered the onion rings, which were crispy and tangy even before the ravigote dipping sauce.

My dining companion went with a simple salad of arugula greens tossed with buttermilk blue cheese and candied pecans plus some crispy New Orleans shrimp. I veered from the fish as usual and tried the sirloin burger served with bacon, because everything tastes better with bacon.

The shrimp was probably the least successful item on the table, a bit on the overcooked side of things but still worth knowing about. My burger, on the other hand, was fantastic - succulent, juices-flowing beef with fried-to-a-crisp bacon and gooey white cheddar cheese. It's one of the best burgers in Vegas, which may seem odd considering this is a place that specializes in fish, but there it is.

The prices are moderate. Snacks, appetizers, soups, and salads are mostly in the $7-13 range, sandwiches $14-17, and entrees all over $20. That's on the high side for lunch but no more than you'll pay for most quality buffets and you won't get this kind of cuisine under a warming lamp.

Service was good and although we noted a few delays here and there that probably could've been tightened up there was nothing to get worked up about.

They have live music and a full bar so this is also a good spot for getting together with friends for a fun night out.

Fish Camp is an original in a sea of "same."

Fish Camp
Town Square
6605 Las Vegas Blvd. S.
Las Vegas, NV 89109
702-463-3000
website
Hours

  • Daily 11:30am-11pm

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