If you've ever been to or know of Benihana's, the concept of Mizuno's will not be too foreign or surprising to you. It's a Japanese steakhouse where groups of diners are seated around a grill as a chef cooks your meal before your very eyes. What will surprise you is just how fantastic Mizuno's is in comparison to the aforementioned chain.

Tucked away in an almost forgotten corner of the mezzanine level at the Tropicana, Mizuno's is decorated with traditional Japanese flair. It's basically a mix between a temple, a pagoda, and a casino with some bizarre flashing bamboo stick lights. The effect is a rather hushed room but not at all inhibiting or stuffy.

The meals are divided into two sections. First are the Samurai Dinners, all of which are served with consommé or miso soup, salad, teppanyaki vegetables, steamed rice, and tea. There are about 8 different choices including chicken, mushroom steak, gulf shrimp or scallions, New York steak, salmon, lobster tail, vegetarian, and filet mignon.

The other side of the menu has the Shogun Combination Dinners. These are served with the same accompaniments and include chicken and shrimp, filet mignon and chicken, seafood combo, New York steak and shrimp, and so on.

There's also a light little meal called the Emporer's Dinner for Two: filet mignon, lobster, shrimp, scallops, chicken teryaki, and ice cream or sorbet.

I started off with the gyoza (say goy-ja - I think), handmade deep fried pork potstickers served with a tasty soy sauce. The "deep-fried" part made them crispy, an unusual distinction from most potstickers and not at all what you'd expect. Having said that, they were delicious, with moist chunks of pork and vegetables in the center.

Next came the miso soup, of which I am not usually a fan since it can be too bland for my tastes. Their version came with enough delicate spices and seasonings that I actually enjoyed it and surprised myself yet again.

A small dinner salad comes down the pike next - nothing more than iceberg lettuce and a fine ginger dressing. Good for palate cleansing and that's about it.

Finally, the chef comes out with his tray of goodies. After carefully preparing the cooking space the knives go flying with a masterful display of cooking acumen. I dare you to follow the bouncing veggies and meats as he whips them around the grill, slicing, dicing, flipping, and seasoning the entire time.

Of course this being Vegas, that can't be enough of a show. The chef casually said "Disco" and turned on a strobe light overhead, making the spectacle even more grand and fun.

One of the coolest things about dining this way is you get to instruct as you go. If you have food allergies (as I do) or intense dislikes (as I also do), it's very easy to politely decline the parts you don't want and encourage the parts you do.

My chef whipped up fried rice from scratch (with the egg, garlic, and all); the teppanyaki vegetables including delicious onions, peppers, spinach, and more; and some finely diced chunks of filet mignon that, when complete, were tender, tasty, and expertly prepared to my exact specifications.

Being the important Las Vegas critic that I am (no snickering in the back), I had just had a huge meal for lunch not five hours before and I was very worried I wouldn't be able to fully enjoy the meal at Mizuno's. I needn't have. Everything was so good that I absolutely gorged myself and had to be wheeled out on dolly.

Okay, that last part isn't exactly true but you get the idea.

Finish off your meal with a light sorbet as I did (choose raspberry if they have it) and you'll have the perfect cap to a terrific meal.

The service is delightful and friendly, with an entirely Asian staff adding a comforting extra touch of authenticity to the proceedings. It's also important to note that on the night I visited, not only was the place quite full for a Monday night, the clientele was about 75% Asian as well. That speaks very highly for a Japanese restaurant.

Prices are moderate with appetizers running from $7 up to $18 for the more expensive sushi and sashimi. The Samurai Dinners start at $17 and go up to $25 (except for the market price lobster), while the Shogun Combos start at $26 and run up to $33. For the amount of food you get, the quality, and the presentation those are not bad prices at all.

Even if you think you aren't a fan of Japanese cooking, I encourage you to try Mizuno's.