The space is lively and intimate at the same time, with multiple levels cascading down toward an open kitchen. Cozy little nooks and booths provide privacy for that special type of meal or open tables and banquettes are available for the big group entertainment. All the while a strolling violinist provides a romantic atmosphere and Penazzi himself provides a convivial one, stopping by tables to see how things are going, even if you aren't there to review the restaurant.

Your meal starts with a gratis glass of a special house wine; a peach-infused sparkling variety on the night we happened to visit. That and the big basket of breads kick off a great evening.

The menu is done as a magazine, with articles, recipes, and even advertisements alongside the offerings. It's an original idea and adds to the comfortable, laid-back vibe of the place. Although the prices are on the high side, there are no airs of pretentiousness here.

Antipasti caldi and freddi (hot and cold) runs the gamut from bruschetta to Portobello mushrooms stuffed with crabmeat. We went for the fonduta ($9), a warm cauldron of cheeses accompanied by bread, fruit, and vegetables for dipping. Even though it's cheese and bread, it's a lovely and light way to start the meal - don't get filled up on appetizers because there is a lot more coming at you.

Turn the page of the maga-menu and you'll find the salads and soups, including a tremendous minestrone topped with parmesan cheese ($6). The spicing was delicate and the vegetables perfectly tender making this relatively simple mixture one of the stand-outs of the night. Choose this over the fagioli if for no other reason than the recipe for the fagioli is right there in the menu so you can cook it at home for yourself later.

Entrees come in pasta, chicken, fish, and meat sections with nearly two dozen options to overwhelm you with. Ossobuco, veal scaloppini, a filet topped with sun-dried mushrooms and topped with garlic-grappa infused mozzarella, lobster, salmon, sole, scallops, chicken parmigiana, linguini, penne, gnocchi - these are just a few of the things you can choose from and that doesn't even count the nightly off-menu specials.

We were in pasta moods since we were carbo-loading for a marathon the next day. That's our story and we're sticking to it.

Our choices included the Tortelloni Penazzi, stuffed with wild mushrooms, ricotta, and seasonings in a creamy Marsala sauce; the Rigatoni Bolognese, in the chef's special sauce stuffed with veal, pork, and beef; and one of the restaurant's signature dishes, the Penne alla Vodka con Gamberetti. The latter is pasta with shrimp and prosciutto in a creamy tomato vodka sauce prepared tableside with dramatic, flaming flair. We loved everything we tried and had a hard time picking a victor amongst the main courses, although I must say the effort thrown into the Penne alla Vodka probably gives it the nod.

An approaching show time made us have to skip the dessert section of the menu, something that I usually only do if threat of death or dismemberment is involved. I intend to go back to try at least one thing from the selection of tiramisu, profiterole, cherries or chocolate gelato flambé, and more.

With appetizers in the $8-12 range, salads and soups $6-9, entrees $20-38, and desserts $7-9 you'll probably be looking at $75 per person once you factor in drinks, tax, and tip. That is relatively moderate compared to most restaurants on the Strip and the food, atmosphere, and superb service make it totally worth it.