At an estimated cost of $1.6 billion, Bellagio was the most expensive hotel in the world. We say "was" because Steve Wynn, the mastermind behind Bellagio, The Mirage, and Treasure Island built Wynn Las Vegas, estimated to have cost about a billion dollars more. In both instances, Wynn wanted to create the most luxurious hotels in Las Vegas - perhaps even on the planet. At Bellagio he succeeded on some levels and didn't on others but for the most part this really is one of the most noteworthy hotels in the world.

It is a stunning building, with its nearly 4,000 rooms towering above an eight-acre lake and faux Italian village. The detail is impressive with little touches all over the place that evoke a sense of romance and style not found anywhere else in town. Take some time to examine the hand-laid tile floors; spend a moment appreciating the stunning floral arrangements.

The lobby area has a giant, multi-colored glass chandelier that is made up of over 2,000 individual pieces, each valued at about $20,000. A large Botanical Garden is filled with flowers that change seasonally at some outrageous cost that I won't depress you with here. Even the casino is richly appointed with thick, colorful canopies above all the gaming areas and special wooden casings on all the slot machines.

There are several high-end stores (Tiffany's, etc.) and restaurants, plus one of the most luxurious pool areas in town. Several restaurants that are considered to be among the best in the known universe are here and there are shows, nightclubs, and attractions to boot. See the related reviews for more information on things to see, eat, and do at Bellagio.

Late 2004 saw the opening of a new 900+ room tower complete with a larger, more luxurious spa, more restaurants, and an expanded pool area.

The rooms in the main tower received an update in 2004, aiming to make them even more luxe than they were before. Some people are really impressed by the rooms here but I'm still left a little cold. Don't get me wrong - they're nice. Really nice. But they aren't as opulent or large as you would expect for the prices you will usually be paying here.

The good news is they are packed with just about every amenity you could possibly imagine from comfy robes to irons and boards and beyond.

The bathrooms are also appealing but not much more so than the other hotels Wynn had a hand in. They all have full marble detail with generous tubs, separate shower stalls, hair dryers, and good sized vanity but only one sink.

The suites range from slightly larger than a standard room to larger-than-your-apartment size. Of course the prices go up accordingly but you get more and more stuff: VCRs, CD players, electronically controlled draperies, etc.

The pool area is also stunning with lush foliage in a classical setting. The lounge chairs even have little flags on the back that you can put up to draw the attention of the cocktail servers running around. Private cabanas are available that have everything from TVs to your own attendant.

From what I've seen, the service appears to be even better than what we've come to expect from the hotels that used to make up The Mirage Corporation (now MGM Mirage), which is to say fantastic. This is considered to be a luxury hotel and you get the kind of attention that comes along with it. Be forewarned however that this is a gigantic place, so you might not get the same kind of personal pampering that you would get at a 100 room boutique hotel.

It all sounds great doesn't it? Well, it is, but my reaction remains less than enthusiastic and I'm still not sure why. Perhaps it was because of the massive throngs of people wandering through. It's hard for someplace to be truly luxurious when there are 80,000 people snapping pictures of the chandeliers. The other possibility is that, just as New York New York is fake New York, the luxury in Bellagio is "fake" luxury. It has the look of an old, glamorous, ornate hotel but it is all new.

But the biggest beef has to be with the prices. The rates are supposed to start at $149 and go up from there but usually go well over $200 a night for the standard room and over $300 a night on weekends. The larger rooms and suites will run you from $349 and up. That's a hell of a lot of money to pay for a room in Las Vegas no matter how nice it is. On a strictly comparitive basis, it is one of the most expensive hotels in town but it is not outrageously so. However, I'd still rather stay at a place that wasn't quite as nice and save myself a lot of money to go gamble or be entertained with.

The Bellagio is, without a doubt, a one-of-a-kind Vegas experience. If money is no object, then this should be near the top of your list. If it is an object, then look elsewhere.

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