When Caesars opened in the 60's it was THE place to see and be seen. Its audacious Roman Empire theme was great silly fun - the ultimate in tacky Las Vegas glamour.

Sad to say, most of the kitschy glitz is gone due to a recent facelift and expansion. Don't get me wrong, the new look is truly elegant, light, and airy with expanses of marble and detail work done to continue the Roman theme. But Caesars really was the last place in town where you could get a taste of old Las Vegas evoking images of the Rat Pack era.

Okay, I'm done complaining because once I get over those nostalgia pains the new CP is one of the most beautiful hotels in town. Inside and out you'll find ornate columns, colonnades, statuary, paintings, and toga-clad cocktail waitresses (okay, so they didn't get rid of all the tacky stuff... Thank God!).

The older rooms do a better job of evoking Roman decadence with etched glass detail work, canopied beds (some with mirrors!), and Jacuzzi tubs in the sleeping area of the room, which may be romantic but not terribly practical. Rooms in the Palace Tower (completed in '97) have less character but are equally palatial - many have his and her baths connected by a dual shower stall. All are generously appointed and larger than average. Rooms in the Augustus Tower (completed in 2005) are nicer still at more than 600 square-feet with flat panel televisions and beautiful appointments everywhere you look.

The pool area is among the most beautiful in town. Lush gardens surround the four pools, one of which has a covered colonnade in the center for cooling off. Adjacent to this is a spa, which among the usual suspects like massages and workout equipment, has a full-service salon, Zen meditation garden, and a rock-climbing wall.

There are nightclubs, the adjacent Roman Themed "shopping experience" The Forum Shops, and about a bazillion restaurants. Check the related reviews section of this page for more things to see, do, and eat at Caesars.

Of course, I'd be remiss in not mentioning the Colosseum - a 4,000-seat showroom currently featuring Celine Dion's extravaganza and Elton John and other stars on her nights off. It's a nice room but not quite like being in Rome.

Caesars Palace of yore and of recent is truly a glorious place but what price glory? A lot. I suppose the planets may align themselves in such a way that you might be able to swing a room here for around $100 a night but only if they are truly desperate (and they aren't). Normally you'll be forking over at least $150 a night on weekends (often over $200) and a minimum of $200 on the weekends (often over $300).

Also be warned, this place has a sprawl to it that is unlike any other resort in town so it is easy to get turned around. Especially since they keep remodeling and moving things all the time!

My nostalgia ache combined with the prohibitive (at least according to my wallet) cost are the only things that keep this hotel from being one of my favorites in town. If you can't afford to stay here, at least come visit because this is what Las Vegas is all about.

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