But then The Mirage came along and changed everything. At that time it was the most expensive hotel ever built (more than $600 million) and packed with the kind of room and onsite amenities that had never been seen in Vegas, all upscale, all entertainment, and all with a special touch of personal service that would be difficult at a 300 room hotel much less a 3,000 room behemoth. In one fell swoop it made Las Vegas cool again and without it most of modern Las Vegas would not exist as it is today.

In the last 16 years though, others have taken the successful formula of The Mirage and knocked it up a few thousand notches, leaving Mirage as a second tier property. Then the owners came along and threw a couple hundred million dollars at the joint to try to boost its profile once again. Most of that remodeling and expansion was completed by 2007.

The things that once impressed still do, from the faux volcano out front to the dolphins out back with stops at the indoor rain forest, the gorgeous pool area, and the giant aquarium behind the check in desk along the way. The white tiger exhibit is gone as is the overall Polynesian theme the place launched with, replaced by an upscale burger joint and an upscale, dark, and moody club-like feel respectively.

Regarding the latter, I’m not wild about the new look of the casino – the black and dark wood design scheme make it feel more enclosed and claustrophobic than it did when everything was floral light and bright. But it’s impossible to deny that the place has a youthful energy that was lacking before, especially now that many of the restaurants and lounges that ring the edges of the casino are open to the gaming floor, allowing the music and crowds that pack those places to spill into the public areas. And there is plenty to do in the casino with dozens of table games and tons of slots of all denominations.

Speaking of restaurants and lounges, there are plenty of them to enjoy here from a terrific buffet to some upscale dining choices. A high energy nightclub and several casino lounges include one with a Beatles theme to go along with the Beatles themed Cirque du Soleil production in one of the two showrooms (the other features impressionist Danny Gans).

Sure there are some quibbles. I intensely dislike the cross-casino hike to the elevators. I know that's the way it was done when they built this place but I've gotten used to the nicer resorts where you don't have to walk through the casino to get to your room, something that is not easy when you are carrying heavy bags and fighting major crowds.

The rooms are just a bit on the dated side also, but more in terms of size than actual design or amenities. This is all about being spoiled by the big rooms and big bathrooms at places like The Ritz-Carlton, THEhotel, The Venetian, and Wynn, but you just don't have the square-footage at The Mirage that have become de rigueur. Not that they are small, mind you, but you can find bigger for the price range you'll pay here.

If you can get past a little less carpet space, the rooms do have a lot to recommend. The furnishings are all of a very high-caliber, solid and substantial if a bit on the bland side. All of the in-room amenities are here including an iron and board, high-speed Internet access (for a fee), very fine bath amenities, hair dryer, pay-per-view movies, 24 hour room service, and much, much more. The beds are comfortable, if a tad on the firm side (again, I've gotten used to the plush variety found at the newer hotels).

Service has suffered a bit since the early days as well. The check-in desk was a mess on the Wednesday I arrived. Can someone tell me whose idea it was to get rid of the single-line queue at the nicer hotels and replace it with multiple lines to a desk agent? I'd like to have a word with them. Once I finally got to the desk, the agents were friendly but that was the last time I had any interaction with any hotel personnel, something that used to have a heavier emphasis. I used to feel special staying at The Mirage but now just feel like one of the crowd.

Prices have become a bit more tolerable but only because everything has gotten so expensive. This used to be the priciest hotel in town and while others have eclipsed it, it's still not cheap to stay here. You may find slow period weekday rates as low as $100 a night (definitely a bargain) but you'll usually be paying in the $150-$200 a range Sunday through Thursday and over $200 on weekends. Believe it or not that's about average for a Vegas hotel these days but you can still find much cheaper rates for satisfying rooms elsewhere.

In a city that changes dramatically, almost on a daily basis, it's hard to stay relevant. The Mirage has grown and adapted to the times but there's only so much "catch up" you can play. It's still a terrific hotel, but it's not my favorite anymore.

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